I finally got a chance to finish the drafting for the cabinet piece I’m working on, a rolling shelf unit of sorts made to fit in a tight spot below the 10/10 pitch of the roof in a closet. Up till now I’ve been working to plane the panel work out based on a rougher sketch that lined out some of the critical dimensions. Sorry, I’m still not great at keeping my drawings in perspective. The rolling cabinet will be taller and skinnier than my drawing would suggest. From the front view above you can tell that it is a pretty simple affair, all 3/4″ paneling joined with dado and wedged through tenons, with through dovetails to join the sides to the bottom. I was limited in most every way by the requirements of the space, which is to say, the height/width/depth/internal arrangement of shelving was not something that could be changed for the sake of aesthetics. However, design constraints often lead to greater creativity, and at least things are made fairly straight forward.
The side view shows the unusual 10/10 slope at the top, which matches the rough opening that follows the roof line at the ceiling. Since this is supposed to allow for clothing storage, its main feature is a clothes hanging rod, and the space needing 36″ below the rod to accommodate most hanging shirts. At the bottom below the dovetails that join the main carcass panels is the skirt boards which hide the caster wheels from sight. I’ve wanted to try more sliding dovetail keys for joining cabinet elements like this, with locking wedge, very cool!
The tenons that join the horizontal shelves to the sides need a bit further thought. I drew them as squares, but I think they’ll look better as golden rectangles, with the long edge parallel to the height of the cabinet. Only the main horizontal shelves are through tenoned, the rest will sit in stopped dado’s so that they can be fitted after the main carcass is assembled.
For shearing strength the bottom section of shelving, as well as the section above the top shelf, will have a rabbited edge along the back to accept 1/4″ tongue and groove pine backing to be nailed on at assembly.
I need to leave the middle section of cabinet with the clothes hanging rod open, but below that I’m planning to cut three stopped grooves that will house a triptych of sliding doors. There is kind of an awkward depth to the compartments that will result, big enough for one pair of shoes but not two.
Grooving the middle shelf for the sliding doors does present a slight issue with the through tenon on the outermost edge. I have to line it up such that the meat of the tenon coincides with the space between the stopped dado or the act of wedging the tenon would probably split off the bottom half of the tenon cheek. Such is the fun of design!
The sliding doors will be made from the same white ash as the rest of the panel work, with a bookmatched piece of panel sitting in a groove on the rail/stile assembly. These doors are really just a small model of shoji without kumiko, all hipboard.
All that’s left when you finished dimensioning a drawing is to draw up a proper cut list. Once all of the pieces are clearly listed things get much more straight forward in terms of figuring out what to work on.
Which is to say, you hang your drawings up and get to work!
Here I’m resawing the white ash to make the bookmatched panels for the sliding doors. I tried adding a small back bevel on the teeth of my rip saw, one swipe of the file, to get through this hardwood, it seemed to help with edge holding quite a bit and kept me from bemoaning the aggressive softwood tooth pattern I’ve filed on this saw. It seems like every time I sharpen it I make the teeth more aggressive.
Here are the re-sawn boards that will be glued up for the 1/4″ sliding door panels, kinda weird grain pattern, but I like it. Wish it was quarter sawn material!
Here’s a piece of reclaimed douglas fir, old decking, that was resawn for the cabinet back. Look at the quality of this material! The softwood has deteriorated farther in by a long shot compared to the heartwood. Considering its been exposed to the Colorado sun and snow for fifty years I think its held up pretty well! Once again, its rift grain, so I’ll have to leave a bit more room for the cabinet back to swell along its width. My local lumber dealer sells CVG doug fir, but not with this tight grain and heartwood.
Thanks for stopping by, the work dimensioning material continues. I just bought Chris Hall’s “The Art of Carpentry Drawing” Volume II, which deals with Ko-Ko-Gen and hopper joinery, I’m really loving it! So forgive me if I draw this post to a close and go melt my brain with some fun geometry problems and learn to play with my sashigane like a proper carpenter should.